Tucked away in the northeast of the city, the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont is one of Paris’s largest and most dramatic parks — and a firm favorite with locals, yet largely missed by tourists. Far from the manicured formality of the Tuileries or Luxembourg, this is a wild, hilly, romantic landscape of steep cliffs, a lake, waterfalls, and a temple perched on a rocky island. It’s a wonderful place to escape the crowds and see how Parisians really relax.
A Park Built from a Quarry
The park has surprising origins: it was created in the 1860s, as part of Baron Haussmann’s transformation of Paris, on the unpromising site of former quarries and a rubbish dump. Engineers and landscapers worked dramatic magic, sculpting the rugged terrain into a picturesque park of cliffs, a grotto, and a lake. The result is a uniquely steep, varied, and romantic green space unlike any other in the city.
The Temple of Sibyl
The park’s iconic centerpiece is the Temple de la Sibylle, a miniature Roman-style temple perched atop a rocky outcrop in the middle of the lake. Modeled on a temple in Tivoli, Italy, it sits high above the water and is reached by bridges, offering lovely views across the park and out toward the Sacré-Cœur and the city beyond. It’s the park’s most romantic and photogenic spot.
Cliffs, Bridges and Waterfalls
Exploring Buttes-Chaumont feels like a small adventure. Wind your way up steep paths to clifftop viewpoints, cross the high suspension bridge (nicknamed the “suicide bridge,” now safely railed) or the elegant stone bridge to the island, and discover a grotto with a waterfall and artificial stalactites. The dramatic changes in level make it far more exciting to wander than a flat city park.
A Local Hangout
Above all, Buttes-Chaumont is a place to relax like a Parisian. Its sloping lawns are made for sunbathing, picnicking, and lounging with friends, especially on warm weekends. There are cafes and guinguette-style bars within and around the park where locals gather for a drink. It’s an authentic, lively, neighborhood atmosphere far from the tourist trail.
Planning Your Visit
The Parc des Buttes-Chaumont is free and open daily, served by the Buttes Chaumont and Botzaris metro stations. Wear comfortable shoes for the hills, and bring a picnic to join the locals on the grass. It’s a little off the usual tourist route, which is exactly its charm — combine it with a wander through the trendy surrounding neighborhoods of the 19th arrondissement.
More Paris guides: explore the full Paris Travel Guides series.
