Ralswiek Castle and the Pirates of the Storteker Stage

On the shore of a quiet lagoon in the middle of the island of Rugen stands a castle with towers, gables and turrets that looks like a nineteenth century dream of the Renaissance. Ralswiek Castle was built for a count who made his fortune in mining, and today it is a hotel. But every summer, the meadow below the castle turns into one of the most spectacular open air stages in Germany, where pirates, sailors and horsemen bring the legend of the pirate Klaus Stortebeker to life.

Come with me and I will show you the castle, tell you about the Viking traders who lived here a thousand years ago, and explain why thousands of people gather here on summer evenings to watch ships burn on the water.

As always, we will finish with some practical tips for your visit.

A Fairy Tale Castle on the Lagoon

As you drive down to Ralswiek, the castle appears on a gentle hill above the water, its pale walls, red roofs and slender towers framed by old trees.

Below it lies the Grosser Jasmunder Bodden, a wide, calm lagoon where reeds sway and boats drift by.

The castle looks older than it is, and that is exactly what its builder intended. It was designed to look like a Renaissance palace, though it was built at the end of the nineteenth century.

On a quiet day, it is hard to believe that this peaceful spot becomes a battlefield of cannons and pirates every summer.

Count Douglas and His New Castle

The castle was built between 1891 and 1894 for Count Hugo Sholto von Douglas, an industrialist of Scottish descent who had made a fortune in the potash mines of central Germany.

Douglas bought the Ralswiek estate and wanted a residence that showed his new wealth and his noble roots, so he chose the fashionable neo Renaissance style.

The architect Gustav Hoffmann designed a castle full of towers, oriels and decorative gables, inspired by the castles of the French Loire valley and the German Renaissance.

The Douglas family lived here until 1945, when the estate was expropriated.

Towers, Gables and Turrets

Walk around the castle and enjoy the details. There are round towers and square towers, steep roofs, carved stone window frames and little balconies.

The building was designed to look picturesque from every angle, a key idea of the historicist style of the late nineteenth century.

Inside, the rooms have been converted into a hotel, but some historic features, such as wood panelling and staircases, have been preserved.

Vikings on the Lagoon

Long before the castle, Ralswiek was an important Slavic and Viking trading place. Around the ninth and tenth centuries, merchants from Scandinavia and the Baltic traded here, and boats sailed in and out of the lagoon.

Archaeologists found remains of ships, houses and a large silver treasure in Ralswiek, showing how rich and busy the settlement was.

Some of the boats found here are displayed in museums, and they give a fascinating picture of life on the Baltic a thousand years ago.

The Storteker Festival

Now for the big show. Every summer since 1993, the Stortebeker Festival has staged plays about the pirate Klaus Stortebeker on a natural open air stage on the shore of the lagoon below the castle.

Stortebeker was a famous pirate of the late fourteenth century who attacked ships of the Hanseatic League in the Baltic and North Sea. Legend says that when he was beheaded in Hamburg, he walked past several of his men after losing his head, and they were spared.

The festival tells his story with dozens of actors, horses, real ships on the water, sword fights, explosions and fireworks. Each summer a new episode of his adventures is performed.

Sitting under the stars and watching a pirate ship sail across the lagoon, cannons firing, is an unforgettable experience. Book early, because tickets sell out.

The Natural Stage

The stage uses the lagoon itself as part of the scenery. Ships sail in from the water, horses gallop across the meadow, and the castle stands above it all like a silent witness.

The grandstand holds several thousand spectators, and on festival evenings the whole village fills with visitors.

Staying at the Castle

Today Ralswiek Castle is a hotel with a restaurant and spa. Guests can sleep in rooms with views over the lagoon and walk in the castle park.

Even if you do not stay, you can enjoy the park and the views, and the restaurant is open to visitors.

The Castle Park

Around the castle lies a park with old trees, lawns and paths leading down to the water.

Walk to the shore and look back at the castle. With the reeds and the calm water in front, it is one of the most beautiful views on Rugen.

Ralswiek on Video

Here is a short video of the castle and its setting.

If the video makes you want to visit, here are some practical tips.

Visiting Ralswiek Today

Ralswiek Castle is a hotel and restaurant, and its park can be visited. The Stortebeker Festival takes place from late June to early September, with performances in the evening.

Ralswiek lies in the centre of Rugen, about ten kilometres north of Bergen, and is best reached by car or bicycle.

Combine your visit with Granitz Hunting Lodge, Spyker Castle and the chalk cliffs of Jasmund.

A local tip: if you see the festival, bring a warm jacket. Evenings by the lagoon can be cool, even in summer.

View the location on Google Maps

Palaces Nearby

If you have enjoyed this palace, the region holds more remarkable residences. Here are two more well worth adding to your journey:

Granitz Hunting Lodge – the romantic hunting castle with its iron staircase on Rugen.
Spyker Castle – the red Renaissance castle of the Swedish field marshal Wrangel on Rugen.