The story of a real adventure on the difficult roads leading to Everest…

In fact, of the Everest ascents, which are explained in a very extensive section, I am only going down to the section where Mallory and Irvin’s ascents are included. Then, I would like to translate the expedition organized to search for Mallory and some of Reinhold Messner’s criticisms and a description of this expedition. Messner published a book on this subject called The Second Death of Mallory.

There are so many things written and drawn about Everest that one can always find newly published things on this subject in bookstores. Everyone tells about their own experiences and feelings. Perhaps the reason why Everest has become a legend apart from its own difficulties and unknowns is partly based on something like this. It doesn’t seem to have lost much of its popularity since the days when it was unclimbable.

Overtaken by some political conflicts, buried at the top of Mao busts, supported by the Royal England, legends and legends from the crazy Yorkshireman to the Yeti riddle… everything in the name of reaching the top. )

In 1885, writer Clinton Dent first mentioned that the world’s highest peak was climbable. Although Tibet and Nepal were banned for climbers, this attractive peak was just a distant dream among the clouds that many climbers, especially British climbers, could challenge in their dreams. With twelve large-scale expeditions accomplished in 68 years and the overcoming of political boundaries, the road to Everest was now open.

After 11 unsuccessful attempts, some of which ended tragically, the impossible was finally achieved on May 29, 1953, under the leadership of Oberst John Hunt. The news that Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay had made the first ascent had reached London during the coronation ceremony of Queen Elisabeth. This news added a new meaning to the celebrations.

The magic of Everest continues increasingly. Since 1953, over 900 climbers have been pushing the summit on 13 different routes. He is still the great challenger, his name is literally THE BIGGEST, THE ANGEST, THE BEST. More than 150 climbers lost their lives. Some of them fell victim to the falling avalanches, some of them returned exhausted, and many of them seemed to have collapsed and been buried inside.

Everest as a dream

In the early 19th century, the Andes were considered to be the highest mountains in the world. The Western world knew very little about the Himalayan region. In 1803, British Captain Charles Crawford at the Kathmandu station ordered all infantry officers under his command to carry out cartographic studies in all the regions they passed through and to make all measurements of the Nepal valleys.

In the following years, Crawford prepared a map covering all of Nepal. The map showed a distant mountain range called Snowy Mountain. Bengali chief surveyor and First Lieutenant Robert Colebrook were amazed by Crawford’s discovery. Colebrook wanted to see more closely the magnificent snow-covered peak that he saw from 240 km away.

He had already begun preparations to set out on a research trip to this country, where the Ganges was born, thanks to the Nepali ruler, to whom foreigners were forbidden to enter, but whose trust he gained. Because he fell ill shortly before the expedition, he was replaced by young Lieutenant W.S. Webb took it. Webb in 1819, a few more snowy mountains in the region, 7900 m. He calculated that he was on it. These must have been the highest mountains in the world.

However, geographers other than Indians absolutely did not accept Webb’s measurements. It would be endured for a while longer that the Oaths were the roof of the world.

First Western vision

In 1808, the Anglo-Indian surveying department began to compile all reliable maps, but starting from the southern tip of India and advancing all the way to the north was still a difficult task for the Expeditions. It took them 30 years to reach the Himalayan mountain range. Measurements were stopped because of the Theodolites, each of which had to be carried by twelve men. When they finally arrived in Nepal, the road was completely closed.

Work had to be managed from a remote observation station. In 1847, Chief surveyor Andrew Waugh discovered a new snow-covered peak 224 km behind Kangtschendjonga, which he considered the highest mountain chain. He numbered it as the top XV. (each new peak was numbered). Finally, the height of the summit is 8840 meters. and 300 meters from Kangtschendjonga. He decided it was higher.

Waugh thought Peak XV was probably the highest peak in the world. Although this result was officially accepted, it was estimated as 8848 meters by Indian surveyors in the region. It was corrected as . The mountain was of course named by Waugh over time. He named it “George Everest”, after the chief surveyor before him. However, Everest protested this situation and demanded that the mountain should be given a local name.

The Royal Geographical Society took over the naming business in 1865, a year before the death of George Everst. EVEREST, THE LONG ROAD TO THE SUMMIT (Part 2) Suddenly, something wonderful happened, the whole mountain was shining before me with an immeasurable magnitude.. It was as if I was in a terrible dream. (Mallory) Twenty years later, the writer Clinton Dent wrote in his book (Above the Snowline) that it was possible to climb the highest peak in the world, even though he did not accept it.

This idea was very popular at the time, and Charles Bruce recommended Colonel Francis Youghousband to lead the Everest climb. With this nice idea, he was able to come close enough to Everest with his two officers. From what he saw, the northern route could be recommended for the first ascent. Although the British administration rejected this idea, they later applied for permission to go to Tibet.

Captain John Noel was the only person from the Western world who could approach within 96 km of Everest until 1913. During this illegal attempt, John Noel dyed his hair and his entire skin and dressed like a Tibetan.

First expedition

The First World War had prevented the progress of the project, but the appointment of Francis Younghousband as President of the Royal Geographical Society and the subsequent interesting speech given by Captain Noel at a conference had renewed the enthusiasm. Immediately after receiving the approval of the British, Indian and Tibetan administrations, the Royal Geographical Society and Alpinclub established the Everest committee in January 1921.

The mountaineer team, consisting of eight people, was going to explore the route on Everest. The Expedition would continue with a large-scale operation in the following years. Although Bruce was an intelligent leader, that honor went to Charles Howard-Bury. He also had a key role in the negotiations with the government. Thus, when the climbers left Darjeling, their first problems began.

The terrain and climate conditions were difficult beyond expectations, a mixture of hot and dusty winds during the day and bitter cold at night. The army’s mules were carrying the supplies, but it soon became clear that they could not replace the yaks. Chief Doctor Alexander Kellas died of heart failure. Between George Mallory and Howard Bury there was an ice colder than this human climate. Despite all this, they were holding on.

On June 13, Mallory climbed a steep wall, aiming to meet the summit through the clouds.

“Suddenly something wonderful happened, the whole mountain was shining in front of me with an immeasurable size… it was as if I was in a terrible dream. A huge statue with incredible three corners was slowly rising from the depths to the heights. Its corners were diving into an infinite depth at an angle of about 70 degrees. On the left, its majestic black caterpillar back was facing the sky.” Then we slowly saw the magnificent landscape, glaciers and rock surfaces.

Until finally, high up, its white peak shined in the sky.

George Mallory

EVEREST, THE LONG ROAD TO THE SUMMIT

(Chapter 3)

Written by Geof TibballsTranslated by Mustafa Daras

Mallory and Guy Bullock climbed the Rongbuk glacier at 6100 meters. They explored up to 100 meters and took the team towards the north face of Everest. The western ridge was apparently impassable from various points. Thinking that the key to climbing Everest lay at the tip of the glacier on the northeast slope, they climbed the Lhakpa pass at the end of the Kharta plain.

Here, photographer assistant E. Oliver Wheeler discovered an easier exit route to the east of the Rongbuk glacier. Eastern Rongbuk led directly to the northern seat. Exit was not easy at all. On top of that, bad weather stopped progress again. On September 24, Mallory, Bullock and Wheeler climbed 7010 meters. They had come close to it. Mallory had already planned a summit ascent, but exhaustion and heavy snowstorms were forcing them to turn back.

Finally, they returned to the camp having figured out the secret of the summit route.

1922 Expedition and first deaths

Although Mallory was very thoughtful, the 1922 expedition began in a very optimistic mood. In one of his speeches, Mallory expressed his concerns by saying, “We should not forget that Everest is very strong. This is such a power that it can be scary and deadly. It can cause even very careful and strong climbers to be afraid and think.”

The management of the expedition was experienced general Charles Bruce. Anacampi was established on the Rongbuk glacier before May, before the monsoon storms began. The 56-year-old General left the summit storms to his younger men, George Mallory, Edward Norton, Dr. Howard Somerwell and Australian George Finch. Monsoon storms started unusually early on May 16. When Finch had to stay at the base camp due to his stomach ailment, he was replaced by 40-year-old Colonel H.T.

Morshead took it. On May 17, the climbing quartet (Bergsteigerquartett) climbed with 10 sherpas. The same Sherpas were the grandfathers of the Sherpas who live in the same region today and earn their living by guiding tourists and mountaineers. 8230 meters. Bruce, following the suggestion of Mallory, who calculated the peak storm in , aimed to reach the ridge with only two camps, but due to the lack of carriers, Bruce had to give up one of the camps.

Thus, the summit ascent is 7925 meters. It would continue from now on. Unfortunately, on the morning of May 20, most of the carriers were unable to participate in the climb due to high altitude problems. The rest were in IV. They set out from the camp, that is, from the north ridge (6980 mt). Due to the severe storm at 12:30, they reached 7620 mt. camp V was established. Mallory’s fingertips, Norton’s ears were almost frozen, and Morshead’s fingers and toes were pathetic.

That’s why they did it again the next day. Others are 8170 meters. They continued to move towards. The return could have resulted in a great disaster. One of the climbers fell and almost pulled the others down, but at the last moment, Mallory instinctively took his pickaxe into a nearby crack and got to safety. Mallory’s quick reaction prevented the accident.

During the descent, they met Bruce and Finch, who were preparing and testing their oxygen devices. There were different views on the use of oxygen in Everest’s thin air. The first group argued that using oxygen at this altitude was indispensable, some did not trust this device at all, and the third group saw the device as a cumbersome device that would not only be naughty but would prevent the ascent. Bruce and Finch 8230 meters.

When they reached Bruce’s oxygen tube malfunctioned. Finch repaired the device despite the storm, but because of the storm again, they had to spend two nights at this altitude without supplies. When they returned, a delicious feast was waiting for them, consisting of goose eggs with truffles (Trüfell; a very nice thing, a very expensive vegetable consumed a lot by the French. In my dictionary, it has a name like Truffle) and goose liver paste.

On June 3, Mallory, Finch, and Somerwell regained consciousness after resting. Despite the sign of a monsoon storm, they had dared to make a third attempt. Finch knew that the situation was too much for him, so he could not continue any further. The others are 6400 meters with the participation of Arthur Wakefield and Colin Crawford. They barely reached the second camp in . At 8 o’clock on June 7, this group set off with 13 sherpas. Approximately 180 meters from the northern seat.

An avalanche fell underneath, killing 7 sherpas. The summit ascent was stopped immediately. Everest had its first victims with 7 sherpas.

EVEREST, THE LONG ROAD TO THE SUMMIT

(Chapter 4)Written by Geof TibballsTranslated by Mustafa Daras

1924 Expedition, disappearance of Mallory and Irvine

George Leigh Mallory was the post-World War I wonder child of British mountaineering. He was an enthusiast of the idea of ​​climbing Everest and was a member of the first three expeditions. He was among those who saw the north face and reached the north seat for the first time. He was also the first to see the Western CWM (Western canyon or valley of silence). The starting point of the successful ascent in 1953 was again the valley of silence, even though Mallory deemed it unachievable.

He was the key person of this third expedition in 1924, which is still discussed today. The 1924 Expedition was led by General Charles Bruce. He fell ill during this difficult transition due to malaria in Tibet, and Colonel Edward Norton took his place. Meanwhile, the second serpa, who died under a harsh snowstorm in the third camp, became the first victim of the approaching death ship.

Bad weather in May extended the expedition for another two weeks, so the danger posed by early monsoons became more visible. There was no time to waste but the weather was playing like crazy. At the beginning of the work, only 15 of the 55 sherpas were healthy. In a short time, III. They left the camp and returned.

Mallory and Geoffrey Bruce braved the first summit storm on June 1, 1924 and reached 7710m. They managed to reach the fifth camp in . Norton and Howard Sommerwel made the second attempt. Although Sommerwel was a literature lover, he constantly read Shakespeare to Mallory during the expedition. A throat infection made it difficult for Sommerwel to go out and caused him to take frequent breaks and use more oxygen than necessary. 8845 m.

From then on Norton had to continue alone. Although the weather was very good, Norton was having difficulty advancing. When he reached the first big coloir and passed to this side of the summit pyramid, he started to move even higher (later it was named Norton Coloir in memory of Norton). It started to be dangerous to move alone in the stony and rocky dangerous area.

Apart from this, due to the altitude, he started to see everything double. Even though he was about to die of hunger, he started to come back from this new record height because he didn’t give a chance that he wouldn’t reach the top at midnight.

In his book After Everest, he explained the reasons for failure as follows:

We were ready to risk our lives, we were never tired so we decided to climb. Neither the freshly fallen snow, nor the snowstorms, nor the bitter cold took us away from the summit. We were just two poor people, and humanity’s challenge to nature was too much for us.

Four days later, on June 8, Mallory set out for her third attempt. While geologist Noel Odeli was expected to choose his partner, he chose 22-year-old student Andrew Irwin as his partner because of his experience with heavy oxygen equipment. Mallory VI was 38 years old at 8170 meters. In her last note before leaving the camp, she mentioned that the perfect weather seemed perfect for setting off, although the damnable weight of the oxygen apparatus prevented the climb.

Support for Mallory and Irwin was undertaken by Odell, who was approximately 600 meters below the pair. Since they left the camp, it had not been possible to see them due to the dense fog. At 12.50, as the fog slowly receded, something began to become clear in the distance. In an article written by the Times,

“The entire summit angle and the extreme point were empty, I saw a black dot moving on the snow pile on the rock. A second dot appeared and moved through the snow towards the first point. It reached the first rock step and slowly started moving upwards, the second point continued its progress in the same way. This wonderful event continued until it was blocked by a cloud.”

Mallory and Irvine never appeared again. After 4 days, all hope was gone and the team started to return. Odell reconstructed the incident;

Both of them had reached the second step on the northeast ridge at 8596 meters. This step was the last hurdle before the summit, and they had most likely reached the summit. They died either from exhaustion or from a fall during the return trip.

In another expedition held in 1933, at 8840 meters, the first step was approximately 90 m. A pickaxe thought to belong to Irwin was found underneath. This discovery refuted the previous idea that the second step was the last obstacle they experienced. Moreover, it was certain that they would not be able to overcome this obstacle so quickly. Immediately afterwards, Odell retracted his previous statements.

According to the general opinion, this end happened with a wrong step during the return that is difficult to explain.

This view was valid until the 70s. Due to the Chinese invasion of Tibet in 1950/51, the northeastern part was closed to western climbers for years. With the new discoveries, it turned out that the second step was now easier to overcome. According to Odell’s research, when they came to the first step, it was not even possible for them to see the second step.

According to the predictions of American mountaineer Tom Holzel, the reason why two climbers separated from each other was due to lack of oxygen. As Mallory climbed again, Irvine began to turn. Both of them happened for different reasons. Mallory is near the summit, and Irvine is where his pickaxe is located.

How Mallory and Irvin really happened. Together or separately? Was the peak reached in the 19th century before Tenzing and Hillary? It seems that the clues on this issue will not be solved for many years, and the question seems to remain unanswered for a long time. Everest will not reveal its secrets very easily.