Before you reach the basilica, you cross one of the most famous open spaces in the world: St Peter’s Square. Designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini in the 17th century, its sweeping double colonnade reaches out like two great arms, in Bernini’s own words embracing the faithful who gather there. This is the stage on which the public life of the papacy unfolds.
Bernini’s Embrace
The square is framed by 284 columns arranged in four rows, topped by 140 statues of saints. At its centre rises an ancient Egyptian obelisk, brought to Rome in antiquity, flanked by two fountains. Stand on the marked paving stones between the obelisk and a fountain, and the four rows of columns line up perfectly into one – a piece of Baroque theatre that still delights visitors today.
The Pope and the Crowds
On Sundays the pope traditionally appears at a window of the Apostolic Palace to lead the Angelus prayer and bless the crowd, and on Wednesdays he holds a general audience in or beside the square. At Christmas and Easter, and on great occasions, hundreds of thousands fill the space. For Catholics, to stand here and receive the papal blessing is a memorable moment of pilgrimage; for any visitor, the sense of gathered humanity is striking.
The Swiss Guard
Among the most photographed sights at the Vatican are the Pontifical Swiss Guard, in their striking blue, red and yellow Renaissance uniforms. This small corps has protected the popes since 1506, making it one of the oldest active military units in the world. Far from being mere ceremony, the Guard is responsible for the pope’s personal security, and new recruits are still drawn from Switzerland.
The Smallest State on Earth
St Peter’s Square is the threshold of Vatican City, an independent state of just 44 hectares – the smallest country in the world, established in 1929. Within its walls live the pope and the central government of the Catholic Church, with its own post office, newspaper, radio and railway. Crossing the square, you pass from Italy into another sovereign nation without ever showing a passport.
More Vatican Guides
You May Like
2 thoughts on “St Peter’s Square, the Pope and the Swiss Guard”