While most visitors flock to the neon of Shibuya and Shinjuku, those in the know head to Yanaka — one of the few Tokyo neighborhoods to survive the wars and earthquakes of the 20th century largely intact. Part of the old “shitamachi” (low city), it offers a rare, atmospheric glimpse of how Tokyo looked decades ago, with wooden houses, narrow lanes, tiny temples, and a wonderfully slow, nostalgic pace. It’s the perfect antidote to the modern city’s rush.
Yanaka Ginza Shopping Street
The heart of the district is Yanaka Ginza, a charming, old-fashioned shopping street lined with traditional shops, family-run food stalls, and cheap, delicious snacks. Pick up freshly grilled skewers, croquettes, or sweets and soak up the friendly, local atmosphere. It’s a place to wander slowly, chat with shopkeepers, and feel the warmth of a real Tokyo community.
The Cat Town
Yanaka is famously associated with cats, which you’ll spot lounging in doorways and immortalized in countless cat-themed shops, crafts, and treats. The neighborhood’s relaxed, feline-friendly charm has made it a favorite with artists and animal lovers, and hunting for cat motifs (and the real thing) is part of the fun of exploring here.
Temples and Yanaka Cemetery
The area is dotted with dozens of small temples and is home to the atmospheric Yanaka Cemetery, one of Tokyo’s largest and most beautiful. Far from gloomy, its tree-lined avenues are a peaceful place to stroll — and a famous spot for cherry blossoms in spring. Among the graves rests the last shogun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu.
Artisans and Galleries
Yanaka has long attracted artists and craftspeople, and today it’s full of small galleries, studios, and traditional workshops. Seek out the converted old buildings now housing cafes and craft shops, and don’t miss SCAI The Bathhouse, a contemporary art gallery set inside a converted 200-year-old public bathhouse — a perfect symbol of the area’s blend of old and new.
Planning Your Visit
Yanaka is easily reached from Nippori Station (a short hop from Ueno on the JR Yamanote line) or Sendagi Station on the metro. It’s best explored slowly on foot — allow a couple of hours to wander with no fixed plan. It pairs beautifully with nearby Ueno Park and its museums, making for a lovely day that mixes culture with old-Tokyo charm.
More Tokyo guides: explore the full Tokyo Travel Guides series.
