To understand Lalibela, it helps to understand the church that fills it with life. The Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church is one of the oldest Christian communities on earth, with roots reaching back to the fourth century, when the Kingdom of Aksum adopted the faith. It developed in relative isolation from both Rome and the wider Orthodox world, preserving traditions, a liturgical language and a calendar all its own. A pilgrimage to Lalibela is, in many ways, an encounter with a form of Christianity that has changed remarkably little in over a thousand years.
Why Pilgrims Come
For Ethiopian Orthodox Christians, Lalibela is a destination of profound spiritual importance — a holy city carved from the mountains, conceived as a New Jerusalem. Many save for years to make the journey, arriving on foot from distant villages, sometimes walking for days. To pray within these rock churches is to stand at the heart of their faith and their national identity, the two being deeply intertwined.
The single greatest gathering is at Genna, Ethiopian Christmas, celebrated in early January according to the country’s ancient calendar. Tens of thousands of pilgrims, wrapped in white cotton shawls, pour into the town. They fill the trenches around the churches, keeping vigil through the cold mountain night, candles flickering against the rose-coloured stone while priests chant and drums echo off the rock. It is one of the most moving religious spectacles anywhere in the Christian world.
An Ancient Form of Worship
Services here are conducted in Ge’ez, an ancient liturgical language no longer spoken in daily life, much as Latin once functioned in the West. Worship is rich with chanting, the rhythmic beat of drums and the gentle shaking of the sistrum, an ancient rattle. Priests carry ornate processional crosses, each of a distinctive Ethiopian design, and guard illuminated manuscripts and treasures kept within the churches for centuries.
Visitors of any background are generally welcomed to observe, provided they do so quietly and respectfully. Removing shoes before entering, dressing modestly and keeping a low voice are all expected. For many travellers, simply sitting in the cool dimness of one of these churches, watching the play of light and the slow rhythm of worship, becomes the most memorable moment of a journey through Ethiopia.
The Town and the Highlands
The town of Lalibela itself is small and set amid spectacular highland scenery, with terraced fields and dramatic escarpments stretching to the horizon. Beyond the famous eleven churches, the surrounding region holds further rock-hewn chapels and monasteries, some perched in remote and beautiful settings that reward a longer stay and a willingness to hike. Ethiopian cuisine — injera bread served with richly spiced stews — and the country’s celebrated coffee ceremony round out the experience.
Practical Notes
Lalibela sits at high altitude, so visitors should allow time to adjust and take the thin mountain air seriously. The dry season, roughly October to March, brings the most reliable weather and includes the great Genna festival, though it is also the busiest time. As with any international trip, it is wise to check current travel advice for the region before planning a visit, as conditions in parts of Ethiopia can change.
