Sometimes I realize that I have visited more places outside Türkiye than in Türkiye. Actually, this is a crime; It’s not something to brag about. But life required me to stay away from my homeland from time to time, and sometimes from my favorite Istanbul. Even though I am currently within the provincial borders of Istanbul, I miss Istanbul very much. I make plans every weekday to take mini tours of Istanbul, but I am prevented by various obstacles on the weekends.

I broke my leg in one of the last weeks and started the warm-up tours with Üskudar. If they ask me “How long have you known Üskudar?”, I don’t even remember it. As long as I can remember, I have been passing by here, taking the ferry, shopping, always eating at Kanaat restaurant, I even had a doctor on the master floor of the building right next to it. I think we took our first steps in this beautiful district thanks to my father and grandfather.

My grandfather used to come to Harem every day on his way to work and cross the street by car ferry. This continued for 30 years. Then my father continued on this route with the Üsküdar ferry for 20 years. My brother and I chose our school in Üsküdar, and wherever we went, we always passed through here. This being the case, Üsküdar seems like a family legacy to me.

Last week, I decided to get some Üsküdar weather before the cold set in. I took a look at the city from the multi-storey car park and walked towards Gülnuş Valide Sultan Mosque. Since I was little, I have thought that this mosque has a very different atmosphere. The courtyard wall of the mosque is a kind of line, a border, separating the two worlds. So much so that the lively world of Üsküdar suddenly gives way to a completely different world when you enter the courtyard of the mosque.

It is as if that colorful life is left behind and the climate of peace and tranquility welcomes believers.

Since I am interested in history and architecture, I would like to give some details here. Quite extensive information is given in the book “Gülnuş Sultan Valide Sultan Mosque – The mosque Uskudar Gulnus Valide Sultan”, which I am currently reading. She is the wife of Mehmet 4th and the mother of Mustafa 2nd and Ahmet 3rd. Gülnuş became “Valide Sultan” with the reign of Ahmet III, son of Valide Sultan, and served as mother sultan for exactly 20 years. Gülnuş Sultan, who loves charity work very much, has created many works.

The New Mosque in the Galata Thursday market, the fountain in the courtyard of the Arab Mosque, fountains, bridges and water fountains on the pilgrimage routes, and the Yeni Valide School (Tunisbağı Sibyan School, later demolished) are among these legacies that have come down to us.

In this family that was fond of art, Ahmet III wrote poems under the pseudonym Necip. This sultan, who was very interested in calligraphy, received the permission of “Aklâmı Sitte”, one of the 6 types of writing styles in calligraphy, from the famous Hafız Osman. There are inscriptions in many mosques in Istanbul.

He wrote the hadiths “Heaven is under the feet of mothers” and “The beginning of wisdom is the fear of God”, which are located in the Gülnuş Sultan Valide Mosque – Yeni Valide Sultan Mosque, which was also built by his mother. For me, it must be very difficult and enjoyable for a sultan to deal with such an art, which requires a lot of effort, among all the other things. Of course, our ancestors gave great importance to both state and artistic affairs.

This artistic wonder mosque, the foundations of which were laid with prayers and the opening of which was made with prayers, is one of the five sultan mosques of Üskudar. Other sultan mosques in Üskudar that I just learned:

Valide-i Atik Mosque, Mihrimah Sultan (İskele) Mosque, Hamidi-i Evvel (Beylerbeyi) Mosque, Selimiye Mosque, Gülnuş Sultan Valide Mosque

I was wondering what sultan’s mosque means and looked it up. It is said to have many different meanings. Sultanate mosque means a mosque built by the sultan’s family, a mosque with more than one minarets, or a mosque built with spoils of war. As far as I knew before, it is called a large mosque with more than one minarets. I will do more extensive research on this subject. There are entrances to the mosque from 5 different ways.

Additionally, since the mosque is located on floodplains, it was protected from floods by being elevated by stairs. There are water troughs all around the fountain, which is one of my favorite parts, for the birds to drink water from. In the inscription on the fountain:

Written in the inscription:

Zehî pleasant bed, the fountain, the dilator, the sofa-shower, the mirror of the Selsebil-i, if the heavens were religion, the earth, He saw in the clear pool, this water of revân-bahşî, Sikender would not desire every animal, Hezar sings to the tune, his desire, the image of the murg, Virirs the beautiful. If you look at the building, it’s a spiritual pleasure. If you look at it, this fountain is like a glass of water. It always flows with joy. He found it beautiful. The channel of the water is the same as God. Let it be like this. The worldPrayer for Valide Sultan in the glory of the AlmightyNurse in the good place of God’s Majesty As long as it is in the world, the world is surrounded by rosesI said, when it is done, in a moment of Hurrem, in the poisonous spirit of history, the fountain of the sultan.

Turkish version of the inscription

How pleasant is the garden of this heart-catching fountain; it is like a fountain from heaven on earth. If he had seen the refreshing clarity of this pool, Alexander would never have wanted the water of immortality. Thousands of birds sing their pleasure in harmony. It is the pleasure in the souls that gives the beautiful structure its beauty. If you look at it with beauty, this fountain is a drink of water. The taste of those who seek joy always remains on their palate. The source of water that leads to God. It is beautiful. Let the blessings that come from God be like this. Let those who are satisfied with water memorize it like Taib. The prayer of the honorable, noble Mother Sultan is that she will reach a good place with her Lord. Let me write this joyful history as the water flows around the rose garden: How beautifully ornamented is the Sultan’s fountain.

This beautiful mosque was built by the chief architect Mehmed Ağa. Other works of Mehmed Ağa include the fountain in Üsküdar İskele Square, Yeni Valide Mosque, Ahmediye Mosque and Kaptan Pasha Mosque and many other mosques. Gülnüş Sultan, the founder of the mosque, is buried in an open tomb right next to the mosque. Also, the fountain is next to the grave. Currently, the Foundations Directorate has a sales outlet next to the grave.

Speaking of which, I recommend the foundations’ olive oil, honey and olives.